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Category Archives: Travellers’ Tales

St. Cuthbert’s Way – Bordering on the Ridiculous

29 Saturday Jul 2017

Posted by Graeme Purves in Travellers' Tales

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Fenham Hill, Melrose, St. Cuthbert's Way, Wainright Ale, Wooler

On Being Ardent

At my first guest house in Melrose, mein host breenged into the dining room while I was enjoying the full Scottish breakfast.  He apologised for not greeting me the night before, explaining that he and his wife had been at a wedding in Edinburgh which had turned out to be really awful.  I acknowledged that funerals were often more enjoyable.  The worst part, he continued, was finding himself seated next to an SNP supporter during the dinner.  “The thing about these SNP people is that they are so ardent.” he confided.

I couldn’t help glancing at the Union Jack cushions on his sofa.

Union Jack Cushions

Wainwright Ale

Wooler was sacked twice by the Scots in the 14th Century, but on this warm Tuesday afternoon in June it showed every sign of having recovered its drowsy composure.  Having just walked 17 miles from Kirk Yetholm over the foothills of the Cheviots, I felt in need of some refreshment.  I repaired to a pub on the High Street.

“The Wainwright Ale is very popular with walkers.” offered the teenage barmaid helpfully.

“It looks as if it’s off.” I observed skeptically.

“Aye.” she conceded.

“Will it be on again later?” I ventured.

“No.  We’ve run out.” she admitted.

“I’ll have a pint of Kronenberg.” I said glumly.

Wainright Ale

 

Fenham Hill Crossing

The final approach to Lindisfarne involves crossing the East Coast main line.  I picked up the phone at the crossing and said to the signalman: “There are three of us here at the St. Cuthbert’s Way crossing.  Is it safe for us to cross?”

“I need the name of the crossing.” said the signalman.  “Crivens!” I thought. “It’s the ONLY crossing, but I’ve no idea what it’s called.”  This was becoming a lot more difficult than I had anticipated.

“It’s where the St. Cuthbert’s Way crosses the line.” I said lamely.

“I need the name of the crossing.” repeated the signalman.  “It’s on the notice on the phone.”

Frantically scanning the small print, I spotted a place name and read it to the signalman. “No. That’s where I am.” he said in the tone of someone beginning to lose patience with a half-wit.

Reading on, I came upon the name ‘Fenham Hill’ and tried that.

“That’s it.” he said. “Do you see a train coming?”

Repeating the question to the Swedish couple with me, I was beginning to wonder whether we might have the advantage on him.  They craned their necks in both directions and then shook their heads.

“No.” I said.

“There should be a train coming from the south.” said the signalman, with what sounded like less than absolute conviction.

My companions became animated and started pointing southwards.

“Oh yes. Here it comes!” I conceded.

Fenham Hill

“You can cross once it’s passed.” said the signalman.

On the other side if the tracks, I picked up the phone to report that we had crossed safely. The signalman said that the warning tone he was hearing suggested that I had not returned the other phone to its cradle properly.  I was pretty sure that I had.

“OK.  Is it safe to go back?” I asked testily.

“Aye, go on.” was the laconic reply.

I scuttled hastily back over the tracks to find the other phone nestling comfortably on its cradle.  I gave it a grumpy shoogle to make sure and dashed back across the line.

 

The Merchants of Milna

22 Sunday Nov 2015

Posted by Graeme Purves in Travellers' Tales

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Brac, Dalmatia, Milna, Mrduja, The Most Serene Republic of Venice

Dalmatian Coast 104

The port of Milna on the island of Brac

From the 13th Century, the Dalmatian coast began to fall under the dominion of the Most Serene Republic of Venice.

In the little port of Milna on the island of Brac the people became concerned that prosperity was passing them by and, after much deliberation, they concluded that the cause lay in a deficiency of wisdom.  All agreed that the best wisdom was to be found in the great city of Venice, so they sent two of their merchants to the capital to buy some. After some searching, they found a wealthy merchant who traded in wisdom and they agreed a deal.  The merchant handed them the wisdom in a small box and warned them not to open it until they were safely back in Milna.

Dalmazia1560

The Venetian Republic and its Dalmatian colonies, 1560

The merchants of Milna expressed surprise that sufficient wisdom could be contained in such a small box, but the the Venetian merchant told them not to worry.  He instructed that on their return to Milna they should immediately assemble all the townspeople.  When they opened the box, they would find that there was more than enough wisdom for everyone.

On the way home, all went well until a violent storm forced them to seek shelter on the small island of Mrduja, just short of the safety of their home harbour. Crouched miserably over their little fire under the shelter of the trees they were overcome with curiosity and decided to open the box for a quick peek. Immediately. a little mouse leapt out and scurried off into the forest.  In the morning, the merchants continued their journey to Milna and reported what had happened.  On hearing the news, the townsfolk jumped into their boats and set off for Mrduja to search for their lost wisdom.

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